WEEK 3

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Gayapriya Gnanaseelan

Bachelor of fashion design Technology

Taylors University

WEEK 3 : PATTERN MANIPULATION & BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUE 

TRANSLATING BLOCK INTO PATTERN &  ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCE

There are three types of pattern used by the designers when drafting pattern:

Block pattern : is the basic pattern that is used as a basis for all adaptation . The block is traced on to paper pattern to produce the working pattern .

Working pattern : is used for marking out the basic style lines and design features. Pattern section are traced off and may be further adapted.

Final Pattern - is the pattern from which the garment will be cut . It must be clearly marked with all the information required for making up the garment.

SEAM ALLOWANCE  

Manufactures require finished patterns to have seam allowances added. Seam allowances width may be vary with the type of manufacture and garments .

DART MANIPULATION 

Dart manipulation means to move darts around the pattern block or slope where ever you want them . Dart manipulation in flat pattern allows you to move dart from its original location to a new location. Moving a dart position is done by designating a pivot point and shifting the dart excess ( space between dart legs) to a new location. Darts are wedge shapes in a pattern that are used to control fullness and to shape a garment to your body. On a bodice , darts serve to shape the fabric around the curves of the bust.

Type of Dart Manipulation

* Standard waist dart

* French Dart

* Armhole Dart

* Mid shoulder Dart 

* Centre front bust Dart 

* Centre front neck dart

* Straight side seam dart

* Mid neck dart

* Centre front waist dart

Type of Dart manipulating Methods 

 

* Splash and spread method

* Pivotal Method 

   

LOCK STITCH MACHINE 

Sewing machine

- we were thought on how to put a thread into the machine and also the parts of machine 

SEWING EXERCISE ( COMMON SEAM )

FRENCH STICH 

WELT SEAM

STRAIGHT STITCH

TOP STICH 

EDGE STITCH

CONVERTING MASTER PATTERN ON TO THE BOX BOARD

Firstly we have to trace the master on to the boxboard then drew the design before cutting the piece. 

 

DESIGNS ON BOX BOARD 

BACK AND FRONT BODICE BLOCK SIZE 12

BACK AND FRONT BODICE BLOCK SIZE 10

FRONT AND BACK PANTS BLOCK SIZE 10 AND SIZE 12

SLEEVES BLOCK SIZE 10 AND SIZE 12

SKIRT BLOCK SIZE 10 AND SIZE 12

REFLECTION 

In this week , I learned  multiple things , to begin with sir thought about converting the master pattern into the box boards . Then he explained about the dart manipulation methods and the types of darts. Moreover we learned seam allowance and the measurements as well then sir thought about how to use stitching machine and machine parts name . Class was quite hectic but still it was quite fun .